Backpacking

We went our separate ways to our respective hostels. Mine, a magical one that wasn't there when I first walked past it, was a lovely homely place. The owner was a friendly, relaxed chap with 2 corgis called Peg and Log. After lovingly trying to remove my fingers when I first tried to stroke them, they eventually settled down.

After a huge bowl of noodles, I precariously followed the snow-lined old trading canal with its line of stone warehouses, along with several busloads of Japanese tourists. Otaru didn't have much offer to my mind, so I retired to a microbrewery to sample the wares, including a banana beer, a Korean bitter-tasting beer and a dark beer brewed on the premises. There were a group of loudmouthed Australian and American meatheads, swearing, shouting and backchatting, from whom I kept my distance and shared disparaging looks with nearby Japanese diners. Call me a snob for shunning them, but I distinctly view my travelling time as an ambassador for my country (and of western culture I guess), and felt as if they were undoing my work. Also had a nice chat with a couple of Japanese girls who had been to the Snow Festival. They said it was good but very busy... given that they come from Tokyo, crush city, I'm preparing myself for the masses...

Despite hearing Rick Astley on Japanese radio earlier, I'm officially in love with Japan!

Day 10: 9th February Life discovered in Japan

Sapporo, Japan

I headed away from Otaru to the bright lights of Sapporo, Japan's fourth largest city and the main hub of Hokkaido. I was keen to be back in a big city after so many quiet country towns, and looking forward to being in a hostel guaranteed to have people in it - the place was booked out months ago due to the Sapporo Snow Festival taking place.

The hostel was a cosy, friendly place, run by a Japanese family. It was clean and well-equipped. It had a communal area and was full of friendly, relaxed travellers. I felt at home straight away and met loads of people. In the evening I went out with four others from the hostel - four Aussies in fact: Jen (living in England) and Rupert, and two cross country skiiers here to compete in a cross-country skiing marathon at the weekend. We had a great time - went for noodles first in "the best Ramen shop in the world" according to the hostel owner, and saw a bit of Japan vs North Korea on TV (we were waiting for the ICBMs to start hailing down as Japan won, but luckily nothing!). Then we wandered to the ice sculpture festival site in the Susukino enter-