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One traveller's day-by-day account of a year-long journey through Japan, China, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, New Zealand, America and Canada

acceptable for Japanese and Koreans to complement other males in that fashion. I was not altogether convinced, and luckily we moved on pretty quickly to another British pub, the Aldgate in Shibuya. It was a quiet yet cosy place with a huge selection of British albums on CD and vinyl and a wodge of request slips on the bar, so we were in our element. A few requests of Primal Scream, ride, and the Manics later, we reached the pinnacle of the evening, listening to Massive Attack's 'Unfinished Sympathy' and munching on a shared plate of chips.

We couldn't leave Tokyo on such a British note, and so headed for a final Japanese izakaya experience. Tak pushed the boat out by ordering pickled squid guts (slimy and chewy yet somehow sublime) amongst other things, but regrettably no kimchi was available. The most repulsive thing on the menu was sparrow, and even Tak drew the line at eating that.

We took one last look at the Hachiko area of Shibuya with the video screen mounted on a building displaying a line of (actual size) elephants roaming across, then said our goodbyes to Japan and turned for the station.

On the way back, the three of us were slightly separated from Emma in the carriage. I promptly fell asleep and Dan and Tak were talking. Next thing I knew, Tak was saying