Need backpacker insurance? Save money with this World Nomads Promotional Code!
One traveller's day-by-day account of a year-long journey through Japan, China, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, New Zealand, America and Canada

Spy with my little eye, something beginning with... R" turned up no answers. (It was "Road", by the way).

We got all excited when we saw a solitary rock formation spring up out of nowhere on the left. At first we thought it might be Uluru, but on closer examination of the map, it turned out to be the flat-topped mesa of Mount Connor. Impressive all the same, it looked as if it had been plucked right out of Arizona.

When Uluru did finally snake into view, it was an exhilarating sight. Slunk low and wide on the horizon, it darted elusively in and out of view as the road meandered left and right.

As the sun was getting low, we set out straight for the rock, pulling into the sunset viewing area and straight into a parking space. The rock was initially a bright orange (a shade I can only accurately describe as "Dale Winton"), but as the earth turned and left the sun behind, it changed to a deep, fiery red before fading to grey.

We lingered for a while in case it changed colour again - I was holding out for green with pink spots - but with the light fading, we raced to our campsite in the nearby resort of Yulara.

Unloading the car, we broke out our beds for the night: nothing less than four swags (as in